Taylor asked:


I am wanting to hire movers to move a two bedroom apartment to a town home, I have never done this before but I thought I might try it out as it could probably save me a lot of time in the long run. The townhome is only about 5 miles away. If anyone could help give me some ball park estimates so I can have an idea, that would be great!

Thanks!

CaptainOhYeah asked:

Am I the only one who thought Al and Billy Mays were the same person? I mean it makes sense, he plays a home improvement guy on TV and endorses crappy home improvement products in commercials. Stupid Sony Vegas shrinks Snake’s head when it renders.

Matt Sharp asked:




There’s a sector of the public who’ve traditonally been neglected, when it comes to phones built just for them. Builders. Joiners. Electricians, plumbers. The construction trade, basically. Well, now, there IS a phone specifically for them. Say hello to the JCB TOUGH PHONE.

It’s clear, right from the outset, that the JCB TOUGH PHONE is built to be strong, to be tough, and to survive things other phones wouldn’t stand a chance against. Its bright yellow body (well, it IS a JCB phone, after all…) is toughened, and honestly feels as if its been fashioned from the hardest rock known to man. Combine that with the rubberised shell, and it means the phone is rated to IP53. That may not mean much at first glance, but what it means is that the TOUGH PHONE is resistant to shocks, dust, water and impacts. Oh, and it will happily work in a temperature range stretching from -20 to 60 degrees. Like I said, nothing stops this phone (not even the Audi they drove over it to test it!)

Carrying on the JCB heritage are several neat little touches in the TOUGH PHONE, that give it some real character. The custom JCB startup animations are really rather cool, and the ringtone of a digger starting up, whilst admittedly being completely pointless, IS very cool, and made me grin, at any rate!

Now, people will tell you how limited the JCB TOUGH PHONE is. They’ll say it doesn’t have a camera. They’ll say it doesn’t have Java. They’ll tell you it won’t play videos, or music. And yes, all of that is true. BUT… when it comes down to it, in a phone like this, do you even NEED that? It’s designed purely to be the hardest, strongest, most reliable phone you’ll come across, and to work in harsh environments without suddenly dying. And let’s be honest, there is a really good feeling you get from knowing your JCB phone can punch its way through a wall…

Barry Newton asked:




Ok you have sandpapered all the rust off, filled it with body filler and painted it and you are pleased with the rust removal repair. A couple of weeks later you walk out and notice a bubble on the paintwork in exactly the same place you did your repair and you have to start the rust removal repair all over again. How can this happen?

Well here is the main reason:

Preparation. This is the most important part of the rust removal process. If you don’t get this right then the rest of the repair will be a disaster. First you need to mask of the area that you do not want to be touched. This is tedious but if you want your repair to look professional then it is a must. Use masking tape and brown paper. Next grind or sandpaper the rust until you are back to shiny metal. Now this is where a lot of rust removal repairs go wrong. You need to be thorough.

Even if a black dot of rust left it will spread again like a cancer and you will eventually be back to where you were before. If you do find a black dot of rust you do not want to keep sanding this down as it you will wear the metal down to a point that it is so thin that it will be susceptible to rust again and defeats the whole purpose of the original rust removal.

One way I use to get rid of them is to drill a hole right through the centre of that pesky dot until it has disappeared. One or two tiny holes made by an 1/8th part drill will not cause any weakness to the panel and you can cover them with filler after a good brush with rust treatment, Any larger holes should be fixed with glass fibre and even larger holes will have to have a patch welded in. So if you sand the panel down and still get black patch say bigger than the size of your thumbnail stop there and seek professional advice, unless you have access to the correct body work equipment and know how to do the larger repair.

Assuming it is not a big job the next common mistake is using body filler. Even some professionals will fill the repair and and leave it overnight uncovered. In the morning they return to the job and spray it with primer then the top coat. Little do the know that body filler is porous and attracts moisture. It will go unseen and lie dormant until one fine day when the moisture will rise to the surface and raise its ugly head. You won’t see it until a bubble appears on your paintwork.

In order to prevent this happening, you must spray the body filler as soon as you can with a protective coat even of top coat and you can sand it off in the morning. I have even taken a welding torch over the top of my repair to heat the filler and eliminate any moisture. Do not take the chance that it is bone dry or you will live to regret it.

This is a very brief summary of how to remove rust and make a good long lasting rust repair. It is not a difficult repair and these tips could save you a ton of money in repair bills. If you want to know how to repair dents and other motoring money saving tips please visit my Auto Repair site.

VISHNU B asked:


Many of my household items are damaged during transport. Annupam packers and movers cheating to reimberse my damage cost? Kindly help me.